Nanna Malleshwara

Recently, I read a wonderful article that led me to relive my life from 3 decades ago and about my favorite place in the world, Malleshwaram.

History:

Malleshwaram is actually known as Kadu Malleshwara named after the resident deity on 15^th Cross, Sampige Road. The temple dedicated to Shiva is one of the oldest ones in the country dating quite a few centuries back to Shivaji era. A visit to this temple is not complete without visiting the other temples which are literally a stone’s throw away viz., Nandi Teertha, Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy, Shirdi Sai Baba and Gangamma temples. I particularly find a lot of peace of mind and solace in Narasimha Swamy temple, a reason I am quite unable to fathom.

Culture:

I was literally not born in Malleshwaram, but from Day 0 of my life, it has been my address in this wide world. My parents had been residing in Malleshwaram for more than 2 decades before I was born. Born into a family of shop-keepers, interacting with wider public was programmed into my DNA from the very day I set my foot in this world.

Generally, one part of Malleshwaram is considered to be a Tam-Bram (Tamilian Brahmin) area. However, the notion of Malleshwaram is subjective and depends on one’s own interpretation.  For me, growing up on 8^th Main road, the arterial road that connects Yeshwanthpura to downtown Sheshadripuram upto Majestic serves as the backbone for Malleshwaram. Few words are not sufficient to do justice to what it meant for me, but I will capture some key points which I feel have been influential in shaping me the way I am.

First, I grew up to be respectful of all human beings irrespective of caste, creed, religion or social status. So, I was naturally ingrained to address others as Patis (Grandmother in Tamil), Anna/Akka (Elder Brother/Sister sometimes used for father/mother in some sections), Aunty/Atthe (Aunt) and Uncles. The fact that this came naturally to me was a testament to environment I grew up in.

So, my news-paper vendor friend was Sunder Anna, my neighbor uncle was Setu Mama (Marwari), my shop owner as Seenu Mama etc. Being a foodie, I can’t forget the Ven Pongal and Chakkera Pongal prepared by Janaki Amma, who was literally a grand-motherly figure for me. Another person I do remember a lot is Akkal (Akka means elder sister) who happened to be mother of a famous doctor. The respect that doctor uncle and his sister showered on their mother has stayed with me forever. I learnt the word “humility” from them for their unassuming nature constantly showering unconditional love irrespective of my social status. In fact, till this date, I feel that this date it’s my opinion that we should respect one and all as humans and not based on socio-economic status.

Is it all about Tam-Bram? Oh no.. far from it.I don't wish to create a laundry list, but Malleshwaram is one big diaspora comprising of lot of people from different castes. I can’t forget St. Peter’s seminary where the brothers used to play cricket and basketball with us. One of the key events in my life is attached to the Christ The King church on fag end of 8^th Main, very close to Yeshwantpura. The church on Christmas Eve is a must visit.

On the other end, Mohammaden block is a muslim dominated area. I have very fond memories of this place as it used to house a lot of my class mates from high school and PUC. These guys are the reason why I learnt to ride a bike (first without gears and finally, a geared motor cycle). We didn’t know what was Hindu – Muslim at that time. We were just friends or dosts. For me, it remains true till date.

In Malleshwaram, you were just a Malleshwaram Huduga (boy). I am definitely proud of my up-bringing and will forever be one.

Sights, Sounds and Smells:

How can I write about Malleshwaram and not write about the sounds and smells of the place? I can’t do complete justice to the Foodie’s Heaven called Malleshwaram, but this is a small humble attempt.

Life started at 5 am to prepare a long day ahead. One of the key sounds was the siren from BHEL at 7 am. Of course, our shop was open and running catering to all the people running for their first shift. People from BHEL, BEL, Mysore Lamps, Kirloskar used to throng our shop. However, one of the moving and permanent images in my mind has been of the 7.30 am bus. This bus was from Spastic Society of India and used to pick-up these kids whom God had designed to be special. I am refraining from using the words mentally challenged or developmentally challenged, for they are my god’s chosen angels. I wish I could do something for them..

Schools were next and being a part-stationary shop, the hues and colors of the school uniforms always painted a wonderful picture. Whether it was the Green of Nirmala Rani or White-Navy Blue of KV Malleshwaram or my alma matter, the checks and muddy brown of MES, the colors never ceased to amaze. Wonder if I will be able to get them into one single frame.

Sights and Sounds formed one part of my life, but the most interesting one is the food.. Yumm. Being a foodie, I always used to relish the different flavors of different cuisine dished out by different parts of Malleshwaram. Right up on the list is Janaki Amma’s Chakkera Pongal, but I am considering this as family. I haven’t captured my mom’s cooking, which was fantastic and out of the world. One of the most versatile and multi-talented cook, she remains my inspiration, something I want to rediscover.

Food, Malleshwaram and the first name is CTR (Central Tiffin Room) now named Shree Sagar right bang in the middle of Malleshwaram Circle Margosa Road. The Benne Masala Dose, Filter Coffee and Goli Bajje are part of the folklore and it’s a pilgrimage to visit this place once in a while. Masala Dosa, Filter Coffee and Malleshwaram have another key point, Janata Hotel on 8^th Cross close to Sampige Road. Asha Sweets is a legend and people swear by their name till this date. Smell of filter coffee is a constant recurring theme for me, partly due to the different smells of the same and partly due to the fact that we had a coffee business.

Veg Pulao in Ganesh Bhavan on 13^th Cross next to my school was heavenly, a taste that is deeply embedded in my mind. Bhel Puri in Gomatha Juice Center was out of the world. However, the best Bhel Puri I used to savor was the one prepared by Nagaraja Uncle in a push cart on 8^th main, right opposite our shop. I haven’t tasted a better Bhel/Masala/Pani puri till date.

Kodiyal brought a Mangalorean flavor to the cuisine, but was more of a recent addition. Agarwal’s Bhavan near 18^th Cross Bus-stop was our favorite joint after a Saturday afternoon cricket in Boys High School grounds (where CET Cell is currently housed).  Veena Stores and Idli.. need I say more.. Place to visit on Margosa road which is akin to another pilgrimage. There is one shop opposite Manipal Northside which serves equally good Idlis and I make it a point to have a try now and then. I am sure some would think of Gullu’s Chats but that’s Nehru Nagar and technically Sheshadripuram.

Some other spots of noteworthy mention are Nayak’s condiments on 9^th Cross for Mangalorean Condiments, Chitra Traders previously on Coconut Avenue Road and now closer to Sampige Road for Kerala Pappadams & Banana Chips, Shivasakthi outlet opposite Janata Hotel for their out of the world Tamarind/Menasina Thokku

While food smell was heavenly, there were some natural smells which have been enchanting. The smell from Sampige (Magnolia Champaka) tree next door to my home with it’s different hues of yellow and saffron is heavenly. One of the strongest odors I remember is from a Lingada Hoovu tree (Cannon Ball tree) whose strong odor used to remain with me. There is an old should I call Victorian House on 4^th Main (probably) 8^th cross corner opposite BES School which has this tree. Every time I used to pass this road, the smell from the flowers was ever-lasting. The last vivid smell I used to remember is from Raat Ki Rani (Cestrum nocturnum) which was found in abundance.

The one experience which I cherish till date is to walk through 8^th Cross Road from Margosa Road entrance to Sampige Road during Festivals. The smells and colors of the flowers and hustle-bustle of the shoppers remains an enchanting and exciting sight, an experience which can’t really be described.

Science and Malleshwaram have a long history with Sir C.V.Raman’s house in 15th Cross,  Prof. C.N.R. Rao being a resident and many more well-respected BEL Engineers from this area. Of course, Malleshwaram does share it’s border with I.I.Sc. which remains an inspiration for a lot of us.

Education has a strong connection with a lot of leading institutions of the yore from Malleshwaram. MES College has the reputation of producing some outstanding students. Maharani Lakshmi Ammani and MLA colleges have a repute on their own.

Music also has a deep connection with Sabhas and Matas hosting the musical feasts time and again. Venugopala Swamy temple in 11^th Cross is well known to host some scholars of repute.

This is just a quick (I mean it) recollection of my memories from the treasure trove of my life. However, I have missed quite a lot which I plan to write about in future.